Sunday 30 October 2011

Happy Birthday To Me!

This weekend, and like every 29th October, I celebrated a birthday. This year it was my 26th one, so I’m getting pretty good at them now. It was also the 2nd one that I’ve spent here in America! Although it sucks not to be at home with the family, I had a great weekend with all the Americans.

The weekend got off to a great start when my desk/office space was decorateIMG00164-20111028-0850d at work and I was brought in a breakfast and several desserts that people had baked for me; this coupled with the donuts will require several trips to the gym this coming week. Perrrrrhaps. Friday night we a small gathering of us went to watch Indiana Ice (my first Ice Hockey game!); I was naively surprised at how cold it was. I mean I understand that it has to be cold for the ice etc etc, but surely a little warming in the stands wouldn’t go a miss? For a country that LITERALLY burns petrol for fun (I have accounts from people that used to when they were younger. True story), I think they could justify heating something up that needs to be cool.

328880_10150325297726595_630246594_8326493_2116647169_oThe previous week a big group of friends from work went downtown for a meal to celebrate Tim’s birthday (boyfriend of the American Kim in England), and we kinda tagged my birthday onto it. It was a great meal, the restaurant we went to is famous for it’s shrimp cocktail sauce. It. Was. Mind. Blowing. For me, I don’t even mean that in a good way; my eyes were streaming, nose running and I don’t even want to think about what could have been going on under the table. It turns out the main ingredient of the sauce is horseradish, so that explains a lot. This Saturday, my birthday, I woke up about halfway through the first half of the Chelsea vs Arsenal game … pretty much just in time to see Van Persie’s equaliser. At the final whistle, and having won 3-5, I sent a text message to my Dad to say “I don’t care what’s in this parcel, this day can’t get any better!!”. By the “parcel” I mean the huge delivery that had been made to work earlier during the week. Sent from home, it was like being a little kid again trying to resist the urge to even have a little peek …

The next hour and half was a Skype session with the family back home where I unwrapped food, clothes, tea bags, and other gifts. My favourite being this awesome Arsenal shirt from Mr and Mrs Jay.DSCN4573
After the Skyping, I was due to go out paintballing with some friends from work. I won the first game, which made some stranger playing with us assume I was some kind of awesome as he fist bumped AND high fived me; one or the other, pal. (Un)fortunately my showing in the other games meant we no longer shared any congratulations and he soon tagged on to someone else. Saturday night I had a great meal with friends and then a little outing afterwards.
IMG00172-20111029-1427     DSCN4559    Absinthe
Sunday was the day of rest, and I even had my little birthday cake that was sent over in my parcel …trying to work out how to actually light the candle was an event in itself as my apartment doesn’t have gas and neither did I have a lighter or matches!

Thanks once again to everyone for their birthday messages, cards, and gifts. Also thank you to the Castetter family for including me on their family birthday celebrations a couple of weekends before!

It’s scary to think that I’m now 4 years off 30 …

Sunday 16 October 2011

Summer: Gone

It finally had to happen, but it seems that the warmest, sunniest summer that I have ever experienced is finally over. After gradually building up a steady, healthy glow (not just a semi-burnt “tan” from a 2 week summer holiday in Europe) my skin is already fading back into it’s more traditional pasty appearance. By the time winter gets here I’ll be blending in with the snow again! The summer sun seemed to run from around May (pretty much when I got burnt at the Indy 500) and was in all of it’s shining glory until around September and since then the weather has been, well, rather British. The pool at the apartment neighbourhood has now closed for the season and I’m going to miss coming home from work in the evenings, dumping my stuff at the apartment and then heading over to meet friends there for the evening (the temperature hovering around 30-34 C to late, late in the night).
We’ve had days of sun and warmth that fool you into thinking that maybe, just maybe, it’s not quite over yet but then the rest of the week has been a washout with non-stop rain. I even heard on the TV weather update that there is a possibility of some snow flakes falling in Indianapolis this week; that would be weird!

That said it sounds like the UK has been having an Indian summer; it wasn’t supposed to be this way … give me the sunshine back!

The leaves on most trees have now started turning from their deep, vibrant green into varying shades of browns, yellows, and oranges. The wind has also started to pick up recently, meaning that most of the ground is covered in a sheet of crunchy foliage.

The main problem I see with having all of these leaves on the floor, and especially in autumnal colours, is that it becomes virtually impossible to walk past a “leafed up” area without sh*tting your pants (figuratively) as a giant squirrel jumps out of a pile of them and seems to be heading for your nuts. Especially around here where they are tame and seem to have no fear of humans. I meant the squirrels there, not nuts. Like pretty much everything else in America, squirrels seem to be bigger than their equivalent in the UK; yesterday I saw one out of the corner of my eye and thought it was a stray dog.

Spiders and other creepy crawlies seem to be bigger here too. I’m hoping the colder weather will put an end to one huge spider that seems to enjoy spinning a web across the front door of my apartment, but I wouldn’t count on it. That thing is huge, and at least once a week you’ll see me either pulling cobwebs from my face or pulling some moves a contortionist would be proud of to work my way through the web. I’m hoping that’s the end of the bugs, as it can’t say much for my manliness when you you avoid certain parts of the apartment because you’ve recently trapped a centipede over there or something.

I remember when my sisters and I were younger and dad would always be called to get rid of the bugs for us, but I think these ones would make anyone think twice. If not then it’s something I need to work on. Worryingly I think I’m turning into my dad a few too many years ahead of schedule: I keep finding grey hairs more frequently after every haircut, I’ve been putting a jumper on if I’m cold instead of turning the heating up and, most impressively of all, I’ve started doing DIY around the apartment using a knife as a screwdriver. Actually I think that last point was always mum’s forte, which would normally result in dad having to fix the additional problem with a proper screwdriver.

Although I seemed to have mourned the passing of summer in this post, autumn and winter are actually some of my favourite times of the year. I love the cold, the wrapping up, and being inside and warm when you can hear the weather outside. I just hope the winter this year isn’t as bad as it was last year as I don’t want my flights home for Christmas to be disrupted!

Incidentally, some lucky person will be unwrapping some Boy Scout popcorn this December 25th. Why? The Boy Scouts got me again. Same as this time last year. Except this time they were smarter, coming in pairs (this little chap brought his little sister along) and choosing a day when it was raining and miserable outside just to create the ambience. I’m pretty sure he was even pretending to shake through coldness as he gave me his pen. “I’ll take a bag of the $10 stuff, please”. What else could I say?!

Wednesday 12 October 2011

James Jay: Licence to Drive

Last week I took the written test and today it was the turn of the driving part. I didn’t want to get overly confident about passing the test; I know plenty of bad habits that I’ve picked up in the 8 or 9 years that I’ve been driving!! On the other hand, I’ve had a year to witness the standard of driving out here …

I made one huge, major, enormous mistake before I even left the test centre. I was almost in tears, it was terrible, how could I have done something so stupid?! It happened during the eye test and you have to read a string of letters similar to what you’d find at an optician … “GEE, O, PEE, EN, AR, ESS, EM, CEE, ZEE, CUE, DOUBLE-U …” I said, open mouthed – shocked.

ZEE!!

Should be ZED! I feel like I lost some major British points with that.

Once out of the test centre I made my way across to the Impala with the examiner. Firstly she wanted me to demonstrate the function of the indicators/turn signals and the brake lights. I was going to pretend to get into the car on the wrong side, but given my overreaction to the whole ZEE/ZED thing a few minutes earlier I didn’t want her to think she was about to go out in car with an absolute fruitcake. Before we set off, we ran through what was going to happen on the test – luckily it went nothing like the driving test in the Inbetweeners …

Avoided

Apparently the test was going to last around 10 minutes and would take me through neighbourhoods with school zone speed limits and Stop sign, I would also have to demonstrate parallel parking. That’s right – the driving test was going to last TEN minutes. On my first driving test in the UK I think I spent longer than that at one junction waiting to get out of a side road! I was also surprised there would be no route involving a Drive Thru, which is as much a part of driving in the US as being allowed to turn right at a junction on a red light. “Okay then James, I need you to take the next left and then I want you to order a large Big Mac meal with a Coke” … quite lucky really as I’d no doubt fail on the basis that I couldn’t correctly request some tomato ketchup.

The test went without any excitement, and sure enough just over 10 minutes later I rolled back into the test centre car park, “Exceptional driving James, best I’ve ever been a passenger to; you passed!” the examiner confirmed. So we went back inside and I had to hand over all my documentation: Visa, Passport, UK Licence, proof of residency etc. Also had to have my mugshot taken, so no doubt I will now have another piece of ID with a stupid photograph of me on it. It’s interesting that when my height and weight were entered into the database, they were entered on numbers that I told the operator. There was no official tape measure or scales … it’s all done on trust. All I’m saying is I’m going to be the tallest 4’0”, 300lb midget that anyone has ever seen. I even had a mini argument about the colour of my eyes; I always thought they were green but she wanted to put hazel!

That’s pretty much it, I should have the proper licence within the next 10 days or so but in the meantime you’re provided with a printed paper version.

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Monday 10 October 2011

Utahhhhhh

The first stop of my 2011 vacation holiday was to Utah. Now Utah may sound a strange place to want to visit given the other touristy/visitor places to go to in the US, but it was a place that I had kind of hoped to visit at some point in my stay. That or at least one of the other National Park-y type states. Pretty much everybody who I told that I was going to Utah, even only for 2 and a bit days, would kind of look at me with a puzzled expression, “Why?”.

The plan was to fly into Salt Lake City and then head off on my adventures: firstly to the Bonneville and the Salt Flats, and then head down to Moab and the Arches National Park. Now to some people that is going to sound pretty cool, to others I can also imagine that 4 walls of newly applied paint and a few hours to spare sounds far more appealing.

Before I left Indianapolis a group of my friends from work, headed by the newly titled “Crazy Cat Lady”, had given me a list of guidelines to ensure that I wasn’t mugged, raped, murdered or had my lunch money stolen. Some of these were common sense and easy to avoid, whilst other possible scenarios and methods of defence that were apparently possible made me question the mental stability of those that thought them up.

Now, as you can see from the maps below (click on them and it will take you to Google Maps), I was going to be doing a whole lot of moving about. So naturally I needed a car.

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With my choice of car, I pretty much went against most of the ‘rules’ that had been given to me and had hired myself a bright yellow Chevrolet Camaro convertible. Nice and inconspicuous. I’ve never been a huge fan of convertibles: partly because I’m a bit of a car geek and think that a removable roof (metal or canvas) spoils the look of the car, and also because the weather in the UK just generally goes against the whole  philosophy of removing the roof from a vehicle. I also hadn’t driven a yellow car since I had the pleasure of owning a Vauxhall Astra Sport which was painted in the imaginatively named ‘Pineapple Yellow’.

After landing in Salt Lake my first stop was to get to my hotel that I’d booked at the airport for the first night. It wasn’t a bad hotel, kind of cheap, but most importantly it had a free shuttle to get me back to the airport in the morning to pick up the rental car. Oh, and it had something resembling a free breakfast.

Collecting the car from the airport went smoothly, although I had to wait 40 minutes as they were trying to ‘find’ the car; how do you lose a bright yellow convertible? After about an hour of driving towards the Salt Flats I pulled over at a rest area and, without the cooling of the wind (had the roof down of course), realised just how hot it was outside. It felt like I was driving towards the centre of the sun! It also felt like my neck had been branded with a hot iron so for the rest of the drive (and until I managed to by sun screen) I kept the roof up and avoided any further sun burn on my first day.

The day that I had at the Salt Flats was incredible. That particular week was actually the World Speed Week (or a similar title), so there would have been plenty of action going on. I got there on the Thursday and, despite there still being two days of the event to go, a lot of the cars had left if they’d been unsuccessful in their class. I still managed to see some racing and cars, but probably not as many as I could have done had I perhaps turned up on the Monday. The whole speed week set up is just spread across the huge expanse of the flats. It’s a pretty weird feeling when you’re standing in the middle of a huge mass of salt with mountains to one side of you and the curvature of the earth to the other, especially when the only sound you can hear is that of rumbling engines.

Now as I’ve already mentioned, a lot of the competitors had already left at this point of the week. This meant that there was no clear designation of which areas were for spectators, competitors, or racing wannabes as everything and everyone was so scattered. I probably drove along the salt for around 2 miles wondering where I should stop, whilst also conscious of the fact that I looked like some special edition Ken (of Barbie fame) in my bright yellow convertible. It just didn’t seem to fit in with all the retro racers that were around the place.

If you click the photo below, it will take you to some of my photographs from that day (and also some from Arches National Park). There were some really cool looking old characters around, ones you could tell that have been going there since the beginning of time. On the other hand, some looked as though they’d tell you all about the experiments the aliens performed on them should you make eye contact with them … I always attract the crazies.

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The salt was also great fun for ‘accidently’ burying your foot to the floor and drifting along, rear wheels spinning. So that afternoon I performed by first ever donut (makes a change from eating them). Blame Top Gear; I’m young and impressionable.

Late that afternoon I left the Salt Flats and started the drive down to Moab, stopping to put the roof up or down depending on how much the wind noise was pissing me off. The problem with having the roof up however is that by eliminating the buffeting from the wind, you can hear all the little squeaks that convertibles make. Luckily the car had an iPod input, so I was able to listen to some music I like instead of the country and Jesus fest I had to endure on the trip to Washington.

The drive down to Moab was awesome. As the sunshine was melting into a sunset, the landscape began it’s metamorphosis from the barren, flat land of the Salt Lake area and turned into ‘mountains’ and rocks. I say ‘mountains’, they’re probably not; but when you’ve been living in Indiana for a year and your other major exposure to life has been Norfolk in the UK, even the incline of a wheelchair ramp looks intimidating. The sunlight held out long enough for me to get a good way into the journey, but the darkness soon fell and all I could see were the silhouettes of my ‘mountains’ as a huge lightning storm played itself out across the horizon. This was proper lightning, the sort that David Attenborough should have been narrating on Planet Earth.

I entered Moab at around 9pm at night and was absolutely starving. In my quest of not becoming dehydrated I had bought a 24 pack of water from a grocery store that day but, other than a packet of pizza flavour Pringles and a jumbo US sized KitKat, I hadn’t got any food. Pizza Pringles, by the way, are lethal. Once you pop etc indeed. So anyway, I stopped for some petrol and asked the man and woman behind the counter where would be the best place to get some food. In their attempt at being helpful both to me, and probably the local businesses, they weren’t really very helpful at all. “Pretty much any place on this strip you’re gonna find good food” said the rather portly lady, which I didn’t know how to take as she hardly seemed like she would be the most picky of eaters. I thanked them anyhow and jumped back into the car (roof up) and headed down the main strip through Moab.

I ended up stopping at a relatively legit looking diner, clearly used to serving foreigners as they didn’t bat an eyelid at the accent (!!). They were surprised and showed interest that I was travelling on my own, which I initially found a little unnerving as I began to think this was going to lead to some kind of Saw/II/III/IV/V style torture and massacre. Thankfully my steak and baked potato was served without anymore questioning! I found a little Motel to spend the night, the place was cheap although this was probably due to the fact that they weren’t having to pay for maid service …

I woke up early the next morning and had a surprise when I stepped out of my motel room. The scenery! Moab seemed to be surrounded by the ‘mountains’ that I’d seen many hours earlier, only I could see them clearly now that they weren’t lit up by lightning. As I headed off to Arches National Park, I did what every good (pretend) American does and headed to McDonalds for breakfast, already the sun beating down at such an early time in the morning.

The entrance fee to Arches was very reasonable, around $15 if I remember correctly and it includes maps to help make sure you don’t get lost. The set up of the park is pretty cool; you drive to set points and then you have some trail options to walk to get to the best viewpoints etc. The hike to the Delicate Arch for example, was a real tough one physically. The walk up to it involved navigating a huge incline, the closest thing I can compare it to without being silly being the Travelator from Gladiators. Tough cookie. I thought I was going to collapse at the end of the trek, or at the very least have Kriss Akabusi shouting in my ear.

I was also pretty impressed that I did all the walking and hiking in my flip flops, something I probably wouldn’t do again as some of the trails were challenging with drops that would definitely make you a little bit dead if the worst was to happen. I haven’t told my mum that bit yet, so I’ve probably just earned myself a clip around the ear when I’m next home. Or even worse an “Ohh, tut tut, James” in a way that only Mama Jay can deliver. The views however were worth however many sausages I’m going to be denied at breakfast, as they were simply breathtaking. Here’s a panorama for you …

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Arches was an incredibly peaceful place. There was very little noise, and what noise you could hear was provided by either the wind, the birds, other explorers that you’d bump into and have strange conversations with, or, well that was pretty much it. I trekked to one arch and sat alone for around 30 minutes before I saw anybody else, it was amazing. I realise that last line makes me sound like a weirdo, but it was a strange experience. The whole place felt very, very old; it’s no wonder this is one of the major places in the world for finding dinosaur fossils.

By the time the sun began to set I had visited most of the arches within the park and walked an unholy amount of miles. My flip flops had by now became the single most comfortable piece of footwear in the history of the world, but my legs felt like amputation was imminent. It was a welcome relief from both the sun and the exertion to be able to get back into the car and begin the drive back north to Salt Lake and the airport.

That night the drive again was fantastic; the sky was clear, there was no traffic and being a warm night I had the roof down for a little bit. The sky above was pitch black but scattered with some of the clearest stars, and in those few hours of driving I saw 2 or 3 shooting stars. I got back into Salt Lake around 2am and managed to find somewhere on the outskirts of the airport that I could stay the night. The place was cheap and I was amazed they had any rooms left to be honest. The nice old guy behind the counter even gave me all these imaginary discounts for having the US equivalent of RAC cover!

About 8 hours later I was back at the airport and heading onto the next destination for my summer holidays … Goodbye Utah. Thanks for having me.

Thursday 6 October 2011

Random Thoughts On A Year Out Here

31536000 seconds, 525600 minutes, 8760 hours, 365 days, 52 weeks, 12 months, 1 year. Whatever way you look at it I’ve been out here (kind of) a long time.

To put that into perspective, all this happened in that time frame: some miners in Chile were trapped underground for 69 days, Ireland realized that they’d been spending far too much on St Patrick’s day celebrations and had to be bailed out by the EU, there was the terrible earthquake and Tsunami that hit Japan, uprising across the Arab world, everyone in the UK got a day off for some wedding, and Osama Bin Laden’s run for World Hide and Seek Champion was cut short by the A Team (USA, USA, USA!!). Arsenal also decided that they were going to give it a good go at being shittier than Spurs.

Ok in the grand scheme of things it’s not REALLY such a long time and, in general, the time has absolutely flown by. On the other hand I can remember back to when I first landed here, waking up the first morning (back when the apartment was tidy and free from the clutter that I seem to have collected) and feeling totally lost and just wishing I was back home. Even if it was just for the afternoon and to have one final Sunday lunch with my family and to hear my little sister complain of ‘meat sweats’.

Things quickly began to feel more familiar however and soon I was caught up with all my new surroundings and that to everyone I was this new, shiny toy. I guess there aren’t many visitors in Indiana. I’ve since made loads of new friends here and joined a local ‘soccer’ team.

My plan was to always see as much of the country as possible whilst I was here. Looking back at all the major places I have been over the past year, I’ve done pretty well … trips to New York, Chicago, Washington DC, California (Los Angeles and San Francisco, Pacific Coast Highway 1), and Utah (Arches National Park and the Salt Flats). All fantastic trips either travelling by myself or with friends. On top of that you have the celebrations around the US holidays like Thanksgiving and 4th July (I know, but when in Rome …), where the families of friends I have made here invited me over. Great times.

There are still things that I find hilarious: the American love of cheese and the put-it-on-anything attitude, the complaints about the price of ‘gas’ when it gets to anywhere near $4 a gallon (in the UK it’s roughly $8.50 at the moment). There are things that I love though: the way the flag is flown almost everywhere and the pride that people have in their country (something that perhaps is slowly being eroded in the UK as Political Correctness rules), and most of all I love how open and friendly everybody is. Both locally (and on my travels) I’ve met normal people, relatively normal people, and then people that look like they are waiting for a revival of Bullseye for some 80’s nostalgia; but all have been open, engaging and easy to get along with. Well, I don’t actually include everyone in that statement. Any airport/border security officials are excluded as most look at my Visa as though it was approved by Gary Glitter.

The most amusing thing for me has been that, whenever I go out, most Americans I speak to fail to realize they too have an accent …

Me: “Hi, I’m James”

Person: “Ohh you have an accent!!”

“Ha-ha … yes I do”

“I LOVE it”

“You know, you have an accent too …”

“Do I?!” – you have to see it to appreciate the look of initial amazement.

You can’t make some of it up. I’m still trying to perfect my American accent but I just sound like a pissed off Terminator or Johnny 5. On the other hand most Americans sound like Dick Van Dyke a la Mary Poppins when they whip out the old British accent, so I’d say we’re just about square.

Then you also have the differences between the languages. Well not the languages, really, as they’re supposed to be the same one. Somehow we’ve managed to execute them in two completely different fashions. The whole tomato/tomato thing is widely quoted, but it’s true. The other day at lunch I was at a Chick-fil-a drive through, then came the usual line of “do you want any condiments with your order, sir?” so I asked for some “tomato sauce and some salt, please”. The couple of minutes that followed this simple request were pretty bizarre. The girl that originally asked, well she just walked away, never to return. A boy took over and asked the same question to which I offered the same response. “Sorry? We don’t have that” the young guy said; clearly he’s thinking ‘what the f*** are you on about?!’. So I repeated my request again. A confused look crept across his face … “Ohh you want two mustards and salt!”. At this point I’m looking around for the US equivalent of Jeremy Beadle or whoever to jump out, microphone in hand. But no, he was being serious, “Errr, nope. Tomato sauce; y’know – ketchup?”. And that was when the penny dropped and I finally got my order. I could tell you story after story of similar happenings throughout the year, but it would only bore you. Or me. One of us would get bored either way.

I’ve kind of forgotten where I was heading with this entry, so I think that will do for now.

I’m looking forward to the upcoming year and all the fun that lies ahead, but I can’t wait to see all friends and family back in the UK at Christmas.